Roofing advice you can trust

A professionally installed long-run metal roof can last 40–60 years or more with proper care. Modern coatings (like ColorSteel™ Maxx), concealed-fix systems, and high-quality steel mean today’s metal roofs are designed for long-term durability across NZ’s varied climate — from coastal salt zones through to alpine snowfall.

Not with modern systems. When installed with proper underlay and ceiling insulation, rain noise is significantly reduced — most homeowners find rain on a metal roof more pleasant than disruptive. The myth of "tin shed loud" comes from old roofs without underlay; today’s installs include an absorbent underlay layer that dampens impact noise.

Metal reflects radiant heat in summer and, when paired with insulation and ventilation, helps maintain comfortable indoor temperatures year-round. This can reduce both heating and cooling demand. Lighter ColorSteel™ colours reflect more heat than darker ones — we’ll discuss colour-vs-thermal trade-offs at the quote stage if energy efficiency is a priority for you.

Yes — on three counts. The lifespan (40–60+ years) is longer than tile or shingle, so fewer replacements over the life of your home. Steel is highly recyclable at end-of-life. And rainwater collected from a long-run metal roof is generally cleaner than from porous materials, making it suitable for tank collection where allowed.

Yes — tile-to-metal conversions are one of the most common re-roofs we do. Metal is roughly 70% lighter than concrete tile, which usually puts less stress on the framing. We’ll inspect the rafters and add purlins where needed to meet manufacturer specifications. In many cases, like-for-like roof material changes don’t require building consent — though changing profile or weight class can.

Both are NZ Steel products. Endura is the standard ColorSteel™ grade — reliable for inland and most suburban Auckland and Wellington homes. Maxx uses a higher-spec paint film and a tougher base-metal coating designed for harsher environments — coastal sites, high-UV areas, and homes that need the longest possible warranty. Maxx adds roughly 4–6% to the materials cost and 15+ years to the warranty period.

Within roughly 500m of breaking surf or estuarine water, yes — we’d typically spec ColorSteel™ Maxx (marine-grade paint system) on a higher base-metal substrate. Standard Endura corrodes around 30% faster within range of salt spray. NZ Steel publishes specific zone maps; we’ll confirm your environmental category at the quote and recommend the right grade for the warranty terms you want to keep.

Long-run metal performs well in NZ hail conditions. Corrugated and trapezoidal profiles are particularly impact-resistant due to their rib geometry. Hail damage tends to be cosmetic (dimpling) rather than structural — your insurance usually covers replacement of cosmetically dented sheets if the dimples exceed manufacturer thresholds. We can assist with the assessment and provide photo evidence for the claim.

The driver is usually a combination of: profile choice (corrugated cheapest, tray most expensive), steel grade (Endura vs Maxx), site complexity (simple gable vs villa with multiple penetrations), access (single-storey easy-access vs three-storey with limited scaffold options), and any tile-to-metal conversion work. We break this down line-by-line on every quote so you can see exactly where your dollars are going.

Usually one or more of: lower-grade steel (Endura on a coastal site), thinner gauge, generic underlay instead of a proper absorbent one, no allowance for substrate timber replacement, no asbestos provision, no scaffold included, or no insurance-grade workmanship guarantee. We’re happy to compare line-by-line against any quote you’ve received — send it across and we’ll walk through it with you. About a third of the time, the cheaper quote is genuinely competitive; the rest of the time, items have been left out.

Things to check on every quote: scaffolding cost, asbestos disposal (if applicable), council consent fees, producer statement, substrate timber replacement (we include up to 10 lineal metres in every quote), fascia or barge-board replacement if rotten, gutter replacement, internal painting if removal disturbed plasterboard, and skip hire. If a competing quote doesn’t mention these explicitly, ask why.

We don’t directly, but our standard staged payment schedule works like one for most homeowners: 10% deposit on acceptance, 40% when materials arrive on site, 50% balance on practical completion. We never ask for full payment up front. For approved finance options, several NZ providers offer roofing-specific personal loans — we’re happy to share contacts.

Yes — a new long-run metal roof typically returns 60–80% of its cost in property value uplift, plus removes a major buyer concern at sale time. Real-estate feedback consistently shows pre-listing roof reports and recent re-roofs as among the highest-leverage pre-sale investments, especially on pre-1990 stock. We’re happy to provide a written roof report you can share with prospective buyers.

No. We work in sections to make sure your property stays weather-tight throughout. Old roofing is removed and replaced in manageable stages, so your home is always protected against unexpected rain or wind. Any sections not yet sheeted at end of day are tarped, and if a southerly is forecast we don’t strip that day — full stop.

Most homeowners stay put. Strip days are loud and can be dusty inside the ceiling cavity; once we’re onto fixing new sheet, it’s a normal exterior worksite. We recommend covering items in the roof space if you store anything there, and putting valuables and sensitive equipment somewhere else for the strip days.

Light rain we generally work through — modern long-run can be laid wet. Heavy rain or wind over 40 km/h, we down tools and re-tarp. Our schedules build in 2–3 weather-buffer days per job, and we never strip more sheet than we can re-cover before the next forecast front.

Late spring through to early autumn (October–April) gives the most reliable installation weather and shorter project timelines. Winter installs are doable but accept the trade-off of more weather buffer days. Demand peaks in summer, so book 4–8 weeks ahead if you want a January–March slot. Off-peak (June–August) sometimes offers shorter wait times.

We’ll walk this with you at the pre-start visit. Scaffold typically goes in the side return or against the closest available boundary; the skip on the driveway or street verge with a council permit if needed. We coordinate with your neighbours where scaffold abuts a shared boundary — you don’t need to organise that yourself.

Strip days are loudest and busiest — if you have noise-sensitive pets or young children at home all day, those are the days to plan around. Once sheet is being fixed, sound levels drop noticeably. We close gates, mind dogs in the yard, and finish each day with a magnet sweep of the lawn for fasteners so kids and pets are safe outside.

We’ll handle a courtesy notification to immediate neighbours about a week before scaffold arrives, covering the start date, expected duration, and a contact number. If scaffold needs to bridge over a shared boundary, we’ll get written neighbour consent on your behalf. You don’t need to organise this yourself.

Sometimes, depending on where the skip and material drop go. We’ll be specific at the pre-start walkthrough — you’ll know exactly which days you need to park elsewhere. Where the driveway is the only access for a skip, we’ll usually be off the driveway by Friday afternoon for the weekend.

Yes — we manage the entire application, lodgement, and follow-up if your job needs consent. We also issue the producer statement (PS3 or PS4) at sign-off so the council can close out the file. The council fees pass through at cost; our handling is free.

In Auckland, properties in Special Character Areas, Historic Heritage Overlays, or scheduled-character zones often have controls on roof material and colour. Most of Ponsonby, Grey Lynn, Mt Eden, Mt Albert, Devonport, and parts of Remuera have these controls. We’ll check the District Plan for your specific address and let you know what’s permitted — corrugated profiles in heritage colours are usually acceptable. For listed buildings, resource consent is sometimes needed.

Yes. Asbestos cement (super-six, big-six, decramastic) is removed by a WorkSafe-registered Class A asbestos contractor that we engage on your behalf. The work is carried out under a removal control plan, with full air monitoring and a clearance certificate at the end. Disposal is at a licensed facility. The cost is included in your original quote — never billed as a surprise extra.

For a typical residential super-six asbestos cement roof, expect $8,000–$15,000 on top of the standard re-roof cost — covering controlled removal, disposal, air monitoring, and the clearance certificate. Larger roofs or worse condition pushes the figure higher. We get the asbestos contractor to quote against your specific roof at the same time as our re-roof quote, so you see the full picture from day one.

Yes, almost always. Pre-1980s underlayment (typically bituminous felt) has usually deteriorated and won’t function as a secondary moisture barrier. We replace it with a modern absorbent synthetic underlay as standard on every job — that’s included in our quote, not an add-on. The underlay is what you don’t see, but it’s often the most important component for long-term roof performance.

Yes. NZS 3604 categorises sites from Low through to Extra High wind zones. Most of Wellington and exposed Auckland sites (hill suburbs, coastal cliffs) fall in Very High or Extra High. That changes profile choice (we lean toward 5-rib trapezoidal or standing-seam tray), purlin spacing (closer in higher zones), and fastener pattern (more frequent). We’ll determine your zone from the council records and spec the job accordingly.

Yes. Tile-to-metal conversion involves stripping the tiles, inspecting and possibly upgrading the framing, adding purlins to suit metal sheet manufacturer specs, then installing the new long-run metal system. Metal’s lighter weight usually means structural framing is fine; sometimes we add bracing to handle wind uplift on the lighter system. The conversion is included in our quote with no surprise framing extras.

Our $199 + GST residential roof report covers: overall condition assessment (wear, age, expected remaining life), leak and moisture detection, structural integrity of the underlying framing where visible, flashing and sealant inspection around chimneys, vents, and skylights, gutter and downpipe assessment, and detailed photo-documented recommendations on repairs vs replacement. You receive an 8–12 page PDF report.

Yes, where it’s safe to do so. Walking the roof lets us check fastenings, inspect flashings up close, and probe penetrations — things impossible to confirm from the ground. Where the pitch is too steep or access is unsafe, we use a CAA-certified drone to capture high-resolution detail. Most inspections combine ground walk-around, drone flight, and a roof walk on accessible sections.

If the damage is localised — a small leak, single rust patch, missing fasteners, or a perished penetration seal — repairs are usually enough. If issues are widespread (multiple leak points, rust across several sheets, fastener pull-out across the roof), or if the substrate is end-of-life, replacement is the more cost-effective path. We give you an honest assessment based on what we find, not on what generates the larger invoice.

Long-run metal is low-maintenance compared with tile or shingle. The annual basics are: clear gutters and downpipes (especially after autumn leaf-fall), inspect penetration seals (Dektites around vent pipes), check flashings haven’t lifted, and look for rust spots near cut edges or fasteners. Every 5 years, get a professional inspection. Within 500m of the coast, hose down with fresh water 2–4 times a year if there’s no natural rain washdown.

At least once a year, ideally in late autumn after leaf-fall. Twice yearly if you have overhanging trees (pohutukawa, oaks, gums, pines within 10m of the house). Blocked gutters cause water to back up under the roofline, leading to leaks and fascia rot — one of the most common causes of preventable interior water damage in NZ homes.

In order of frequency: deteriorated flashings (apron, ridge, barge), failed penetration seals (Dektites around vents, soil pipes, flue pipes), rust around fasteners on older roofs, blocked or overflowing gutters causing water to back up, and storm-damaged sheets. The vast majority of leaks are at junctions and penetrations, not in the body of the sheets themselves.

Yes — even minor leaks can lead to serious damage including soaked insulation, mould growth in ceiling cavities, and weakened structural elements. In NZ’s wet climate, what looks like a small ceiling stain often has been wetting framing for months by the time it’s visible. Get it looked at quickly — we offer same-day inspections for active leaks.

Yes — we work directly with insurers on storm and impact-damage claims. We provide the documented assessment, photo evidence, scope of works, and detailed quote that loss adjusters need. We’ve worked with all the major NZ insurers (IAG/AMI/State, Tower, Vero, FMG) and know what each requires. You manage the policy relationship; we manage the technical paperwork.

Yes, it’s best to notify your insurer in advance. They may have requirements about the contractor (most insurers want LBP-licensed and insured installers, which we are) or specific advice. We carry $2M public liability and full statutory ACC cover, and we can provide certificates of currency to your insurer on request.

Generally no — standard home insurance covers sudden and accidental damage (storm, hail, impact), not gradual deterioration or maintenance failures. Some policies have specific exclusions for roofs over 25 or 30 years old. If a leak is caused by an aged-out roof, you’ll typically pay for the re-roof yourself; if it’s caused by a single insured event (storm, hail, falling tree), the claim should pay. A roof report is useful evidence either way.

Sometimes — particularly if your previous roof was over 30 years old or had documented issues. Insurers reassess the property when they get notification of major work. Worth a phone call to your broker after handover with the warranty paperwork in hand; some insurers offer a small ongoing discount, others apply it via reduced excess at renewal.

Yes — long-run metal is one of the best substrates for solar. Modern solar mounts use clamps that grip the rib of the sheet without piercing the roof, so they don’t void the manufacturer warranty. If you know solar is coming, mention it at the quote stage; we can pre-spec mounting points and ensure rib spacing suits common panel array sizes. If solar comes later, retrofit is straightforward and doesn’t require any roof penetration.

No — the opposite is generally true. Most solar manufacturers prefer metal substrates because they last as long as or longer than the panels themselves (25–30 year panel life vs 40–60 year metal roof life). Solar installs that pierce the roof for fixings can void roof warranties if not done correctly — clamp-fix systems on standing-seam or trapezoidal profiles avoid this entirely.

If solar is on the medium-term plan, yes — the scaffold is already up, the access is already paid for, and we can pre-mark mounting points to suit the panel array. Doing both at once typically saves around 10–15% on the combined install vs doing them separately. We work with several Auckland and Wellington solar providers and can introduce you.

Almost always — for two reasons. Cost: scaffold and edge protection are already in place, so you’re only paying for the materials and labour for the gutter run, not a separate site setup. Integration: new sheet edges meet new gutters cleanly, eliminating the kind of awkward junction failures that develop when the two systems are different ages.

Yes, and they often do. Blocked or overflowing gutters cause water to back up under the roofline, leading to leaks at the eave, rotted fascia and barge boards, and even saturation of the wall framing below. It’s one of the most common preventable causes of interior water damage in NZ homes. A two-minute clean-out twice a year prevents most of it.

Most NZ guttering systems last between 15 and 30 years. uPVC gutters typically last around 15 years; ColorSteel™ continuous-spout gutters often outlast the roof itself when properly maintained (25–30+ years). Coastal exposure shortens lifespan unless marine-grade material is specified.

For coastal homes within 500m of breaking surf, aluminium and uPVC are popular because they don’t rust. Modern marine-grade ColorSteel™ (ColorSteel™ Maxx, Zincalume) options are also durable in coastal zones with proper specification. Standard galvanised steel gutters typically corrode faster in salt-laden air, so we don’t recommend them within 500m of the surf.